In case you didn’t get the message from their prickly thorns, roses are pretty tough – they don’t mind a bit of rough treatment. In fact, they like it. Take pruning, for example. There’s nothing a rose likes better than a good hard prune. We’re not talking about a little trim here and there. We’re talking back to the bare bones, full on pruning.  

There are two types of pruning when it comes to roses.

In spring and summer, you snip the dead flower off (known as dead-heading) to encourage more blooms. But after they’ve dropped their leaves in winter, it’s time to pull out the secateurs and the saw. A solid prune stimulates lots of new growth for spring, so don’t be shy. You might want to get some strong gloves though – those thorns are mean.

When is the right time to prune?  

Depending on where you live, the best time of year for a winter prune is June or July. But if you live in a really cold part of Australia such as Tasmania, wait until August so the new growth doesn’t get knocked about by any frost.

Here’s what to do:

First, make sure your secateurs are sharp and clean.

Then, stand back and take a look at your rose bush. The aim of pruning is to open up the middle of the bush to let natural light in and to up the airflow. This minimises the risk of fungus developing, while increasing the amount of flowers. It’s a win-win.  

Pick out the main branches – there’s usually about 3-5, depending on the size of the rose.

Now, ask yourself: Are there any dead branches? Spindly stems (anything skinnier than a biro)? Any branches that cross over each other or are looking a bit old and warty?

These all need to go.

The first cut.

Look on the branch for little nodes. This is where new growth comes from. Now, check for a node that’s facing outwards. These ones produce new growth around the outside of the bush and not in the centre – remember, we’re aiming to maximise light and space.

Now, cut the branch on a 45-degree angle, sloping AWAY from the node. Cutting on an angle makes sure that rain and dew won’t collect in the cut, helping to prevent fungal disease.

Start at the top of the bush and work your way down. Decide which stems are keepers and which need to be removed. Aim to reduce the plant by at least half its size.

If there are any really thick branches that need trimming, use a clean, sharp gardening saw instead of the secateurs.  

When you’re finished, your rose will be nothing more than a few sturdy, bare branches. It’s okay; after about three weeks, fertilise your plant with rose food, blood and bone, or manure. Then… wait.

By early spring your rose will be covered in lush growth and by early summer it will be covered in sweetly-scented blooms.

For more information, or if you’re unsure about anything, speak to your friendly local nursery.